GardenBed Personality: Jennifer Moore - Planting & Care of Roses (Page 2 of 3)

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Planting & Care of Roses
(Page 2 of 3)

This article was provided by Jennifer Moore
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After the spring clean-up has been completed, a fertilizer application should be applied, according to manufacturer's instructions, working it well into the soil, then water. Compost, liquid fertilizer and organic fertilizers can be applied as well as alternative methods. The most suitable fertilizers, are ones that include a double number in the center, and are of a 1:2:1 ratio. These comprise of 10-29-10, 5-10-8 or 6-12-8. Never apply granular fertilizer to a newly planted rose bush, instead use bone- or blood meal until it's first bloom, then granular fertilizers can be used sparingly.

Watering should be done deeply once a week, applied at ground level and not in the hot sun. The leaves should be dry by nightfall or mildew and blackspot will emerge. If applied to the leaves in hot sun, the edges will burn, therefore early or late morning is best.

When planting a rose bush, consider the location and soil. Roses should be planted where drying winds don't affect them. Consider roses that are hardy for your area and what time and maintenance you are required to give it. Roses will grow in any good soil, but do poorly in alkaline soil, this can be amended by applying sulphur. The best results are when the site is prepared a week before planting. Improve the soil by adding generous amounts of compost and well-rotted manure, mixing well into the soil to a depth of 16-20 inches. Mix bone- or blood-meal into the upper part of the dug area and allow the bed to settle before planting.

If planting a bare-root rose bush, allow the bush to soak in a pail of water overnight. Before planting remove all dead and broken roots and canes to healthy tissue, keeping the roots moist at all times when planting. Dig a hole that is large enough for the roots to spread out freely. Make a mound of earth in the center of the hole and spread out the roots over the mound. The bud union (resembles a ball at the base of the stem) should be at least 10-15 cm below the finished grade in our zone. Backfill the hole with the remaining soil mixture 3/4 full, firm the soil around the roots and water. Allow the water to drain and finish filling the hole to form a small mound. This mound protects the bush in the spring from sun-scald or when planting in the fall it protects it from the winter cold. Remove the soil in either occasion when buds begin to break and the bush is established.

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